In October a friend and I hiked the 3-Passes Trek
in the Nepal Everest (Khumbu) region. An amazing trek with stunning views of the world's highest mountains. I'm still procrastinating on the day-by-day trip report about all the impressions and sights, meanwhile some random notes and a table of our
itinerary with elevation gains and hiking times.
We hired a porter/guide via an agency in
KTM and hiked for 21 days, starting from Phaplu (jeep ride from Kathmandu) and flew back to KTM from Lukla.
Spending a lot of time in Kathmandu may not be for everybody, especially touristy Thamel
with a lot of dust, crowds, traffic is rather tiring. Accommodation in the area near Boudhanath Pagoda is much nicer
and quieter (and also relatively close to the airport).
Money: extra US
cash is useful. ATMs do not always work (power outages, break down). Withdrawal
amounts, fees and allowed frequency vary (max 35,000 rp, in Lukla only 15,000 rp,
some ATMs only once/day). In Lukla only Visa cards worked. No ATMs past Namche.
Clothing and boots: Down jacket and warm pants were nice to
have for evening photo sessions and mornings in the higher elevation tea
houses. I was happy with my sleeping bag (rated -7oC, but for me only to good 0
degrees), others may be OK with a thinner bag and extra tea house blankets. I had
runners and hiking boots and found the boots quite useful for the first three
days from Phaplu to Lukla where the trail was muddy and rocky due to high donkey
train traffic and for the passes. On the Annapurna Circuit I found that light
runners were prefect for most of the trail as the trek starts much lower and it
can be quite warm for the first days (+30oC). Waterproof heavy boots can easily
cause blister problems.
Single accommodation can be difficult to find in high-demand
places (Lobuche, Gorak Shep, Gokyo) and it may be best to pair up with another
solo-trekker.
The early bird gets the worm: starting and arriving early
(breakfast at 6:30, start hiking 7 or 7:30 AM) helps to get better views and
better choice of accommodation. Clouds/fog often formed in the afternoon when
we were there in October. Below Lukla it rained every day around 2 or 3 PM,
it was nice to be already in the tea house when it starts pouring.
Additional 2000 rupee ‘community development’ fee was charged just
before entering Namche.
Kala Patthar: lots of people go at sunrise but I think
afternoon and sunset is better for photos. The sun rises behind Everest/Nuptse,
so the walls are in the shade in the morning.
The Everest base camp trail was the most crowded section
of the 3 passes trek, Gokyo was a little less crowded and equally scenic. Least
crowded were the Chukung and Thame/Lungden valleys.
Flying vs Jeep. The good: longer acclimatization (3 or 7
days, Phaplu or Jiri), avoid problems with cancelled flights to Lukla. The bad:
jeep ride as sketchy as the flight into Lukla, the trail is in marginal shape
due to more rain and lots of donkey trains (comparable to a rough hiking trail
on the Vancouver North shore, rocky and muddy) and takes more time.
Booking flights to/from Lukla: best to book early in the day
(weather can get worse during the day, later flights are more likely to be
cancelled).
Drinking water treatment (pump, uv, pristine etc) is
preferable to buying bottled water as there is no recycling and plastic bottles
are often either discarded or burned in open fires.
With increasing elevation prices for accommodation, food,
showers, charging of electronics, bottled water increase. Solar charger and/or
battery packs and means of treating water treatment are useful. There is no
free Wifi after Namche but Everest Link service is available 200 Mb for 600 rp.
Spelling of place names varies widely.
Day
0 - Kathmandu
sightseeing
1 - Jeep to Phaplu/Salleri
- 2300m, 11h driving, bad road
2 - Nunthala (2200m, 7h) via Traksindo La (approx. 3050m), trail muddy with
loose rocks, lots of donkey trains,
3 - Bubsa (2050m, 6h) via Dud
Koshi (1500m), same trail conditions,
4 - Surkhe (2300m, 6h),
same trail conditions,
5 - Monjo (2850, 6h) trail
in much better shape but many trekkers from Lukla
6 - Namche (3360m, 3h)
7 - Namche (3360m), rest day, hike to Kumjung (Monastery with Yeti scalp) and
Everest View Hotel (3800m)
8 – Tengboche (3800m, 5h), Monastery, monks prayer in the morning and evening
9 – Dingboche (4300m, 4h)
10 – Chukkung (4730m,
2.5h)
11 - Chukkung (4730m), rest day, Chukkung Ri (5300m, 3.5h)
12 – Lobuche (4930m, 6.5h) via Kongma La (5535m)
13 – Gorak Shep (5020m,
2h) and Kala Patthar (5544m, 3h round trip)
14 – Dzongla (4800m, 5h)
15 – Dragnag (=Tagnag)
(4700m, 6h) via Cho La (5400m)
16 – Gokyo (4900m, 1.5h), fourth lake (2h)
17 – Gokyo rest day, hike Gokyo Ri (5400m, 3.5h)
18 – Lumbden (4500, 6h) via Renjo La (5480m)
19 – Namche (3360, 6h)
20 – Phakding (2785m, 4h)
21 – Lukla (2850m, 2.5h)
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| Looking down valley from Kala Patthar, the glacier is Khumbu, pointy peak on the left Ama Dablam |
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| Gokyo Lake from Gokyo Ri |
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