Eiger, Moench and Jungfrau

In September Pete and I went back to Europe for two weeks. In Germany we spent a week with my parents and visited family and friends in Leipzig and Berlin. Then we drove on to Switzerland and explored the area around Interlaken and Fiesch. We did lots of hiking, some climbing on Klettersteigs (one with BASE exits above Lauterbrunnen) and paragliding. The towering faces of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau were quite an impressive backdrop for our flights from First. I had just read the ‘White Spider’ by Heinrich Harrer, who was in the first team to climb the infamous Eiger North Face in 1938 and it was cool to figure out the puzzle of routes up this rock wall. We took the Jungfraubahn to the Joch and hiked over to Moenchshuette. Lots of Steinboecke and Gemsen were sighted. We also had a close look at the Aletsch glacier from its south side from Fiesch, a place we had visited with my parents when we spent a couple of weeks in Sas Fee in 1999. But we noticed that Switzerland was rather expensive compared to Italy and France.

Ice Climbing!

Lack of snow makes skiing not an enticing option. Too many obstacles sticking out lower down to scratch ski bases and maybe even skin and bones! So we try something entirely new: ice climbing. I always wanted to give it a try and a (formerly) ice-climber friend offered to show us the ropes. Since the main climbing area on the Cheakamus was already packed with keen climbers we wander off and found a smaller cliff we had all to ourselves. The climb was short but it’s long enough to get into the rhythm of front point – front point – tool – tool. After the second lap I started to trust the placements and stopped hacking away at the ice. Bonus point: the belay spot was in the sun. Good fun and a suitable (but probably not very typical) introduction to ice climbing. Thanks, Ben!

Linus & Cornwall - Sept 22/23

After seemingly endless weeks of sunshine the weather didn’t cooperate with our plans for a heli&fly trip in the Tantalus Range near Squamish.

On to plan B which was exploring the Downton area on the Duffy Lake Road. We had done one trip up to Statimcet quite a few years ago. Great area with 4WD access to 1700 meters. There was a recent trip report on Clubtread of some fabulous ridge scrambling (Soprano-Contralto-Schroeder-Linus-Statimcet) and we decided to check it out.

Again, Downton didn't disappoint. We made our way up to the col between Schroeder and Linus and ridge-scrambled over huge blocks to the top of Linus. Along the way was some mild exposure and a fun knife-edge ridge, which seemed a bit too pointy for a-cheval (in mountaineering terms to cross a ridge straddling it like a horse). Fantastic views of small alpine lakes behind every ridge, and of Lost Creek Valley, Birkenhead, Cayoosh, Joffre and Matier.

Relaxed scrambling on Linus ridge

Part of me wanted to stay for more exploring the next day, but we had made plans to meet with friends near Ashcroft. So off we drove through Lillooet, Pavilion and Marble Canyon with its freshwater corals or stromatolites (must check them out sometime). Then we turned onto graveled Hat Creek Road, a nice short-cut along a valley with scenic ranches. After a few turns the road was getting smaller, bumpier and looking somewhat unused. But just after we turned on our GPS for confirmation, we met up with our friends on the spur road up to Cornwall viewpoint. Together we watched the beautiful sunset from the old fire look-out (elevation 2036 meter) over a couple of beer and Andrei's special chocolate-brandy mix.

On top of the world at Cornwall

Next morning we relaxed in the sun with sage-brush and coffee smells, did some peak-spotting (Jesmond near the Fraser Canyon and Pyramid at the Nahatlach, both places we had visited before) and watched a bear browsing on the slope across from our launching spot. Despite a few cycles starting to come in, the flight down to Ashcroft Manor was a sled ride. But a long, scenic and very enjoyable sled-ride (1600 meters elevation difference).

Alpine Week - Last Week August

Compared to last year's Chamonix visit for two weeks, six days to explore the Austrian Alps didn’t feel quite adequate (and a day and a half of rain didn’t help either). But we had some nice flights and found lots of other things to explore.

We didn’t haul our wings to Europe in vain. On our way down south Pete and I flew for the first time in Germany, from Brauneck launch south of Munich. My favorite site was Bischling south of Salzburg, where I had a sweet flight crossing a couple of times from launch to the limestone towers on the other valley side. It was neat to fly so close to the jagged cliffs. Emberger Alm at Greifenburg in Austria's Kärnten region didn’t quite live up to my expectations. While Pete and Alex had a good XC flight on our first day, I sank out after crossing to the next ridge.

Unfortunately the weather turned bad and we had just one day of flying there before the rain arrived. We spent the next several wet days hiking (Obertilliach), via-ferrata-ing (very cool next to waterfalls in the tight canyon of the Pirkacher Klamm), exploring lakes, visiting Roman excavations (Aguntum Lienz), the Blue Sky home base in Sillian (hosts of our Dolomiti tour two years ago), garnet mines in Villach and, when the downpour started in earnest, several Konditoreien (Alex’ favorite rain time activity). Other interesting sights (Auerhuehner) and signs (Schwammerln sammeln verboten!)

On our last day in Europe we got in the air again at the Jenner near Berchtesgaden, above the super scenic Königssee with Watzmann Mountain towering behind. Family stories go that my grandmother visited here as a young woman and always fondly remembered the stunning mountain scenery. When I first heard about this there was little chance for me to ever see these sights. Leave alone fly over it with a fabric wing. But time changes ... almost everything.

Chamonix, Sept 4-16

What amazing awe-inspiring scenery!

Like an all-imposing giant of rock and ice Mont Blanc dominates the views from almost everywhere. Although I have seen (and climbed) higher peaks, I have never been anywhere near such a massive mountain.

We lucked out with the weather, flew many different sites, tried new wings, did some short hikes and got even some via-ferrata climbing in. Didn't remember how much fun this was... have to do more of it next time we come to Europe – lots of exposure for excellent adrenalin jolts in a relatively save environment.

From Chamonix Sept

Since it’s posted already on our local flying forum, I will just recycle what I wrote there:

Fall flying in Chamonix is just like fall flying here. Mostly stable conditions make for scratch sessions and more or less extended sled rides. Valley winds can get strong in the afternoon. We even got a display of a solid Föhn-gust. Fortunately only a traction kite was up in the LZ and the kite-flyer got dragged all across it without damage.

But sled rides in Chamonix are of a different dimension. The views are gorgeous. Massive Mt Blanc and the needles of the many aiguilles dominate the scenery. Launching on a glacier, floating over crevasses seconds after getting airborne, searching rock cliffs for thermals, floating over the town with its many tourists and flower-decorated houses. Access to launches is fast and easy with gondolas and lifts (but some close in fall). Multi-day passes are well worth the money, especially in stable conditions. Pete did 6 flights in one day, probably half the costs of our 8-day pass. During our first week we stayed at the Flyers Lodge (http://www.flyers-lodge.com) in Domancy just outside the Chamonix valley, with Dennis and Gillian, who gave us lots of great tips on flying in the area.

We flew Planpraz (2000 m) across the valley from Mt Blanc on several days. On the final day Pete managed to climb to 2800 m and fly over the Brevent to Plaine Joux. From Plan de l'Aiguille (2200 m, mid station of the Aiguille du Midi gondola) we cruised over Bosson Glacier. To fly the Aiguille du Midi (3800m) you must cross an ice arête. It had a distinct knife-edge appearance and was topped by a stream of short-roped scramblers, posed perfectly to take everybody else out and down a 1000 meter slope should one slip. We gave it a pass. We flew from Les Grands Montets (3200 m) instead, where the launch is on a flat glacier a pleasant stroll from the gondola station (but watch for the crevasses), and where we got surprised by a massive rockfall from the Dru just around the corner (according to the news the mountain shed 12000 m3 of rock). Outside the Chamonix Valley we flew from Plaine Joux and Annecy (gorgeous limestone ridges and cliffs). Annecy Montmin launch is the most deluxe one I have ever set foot on with artificial lawn and terraced area for spectators (fortunately nothing too spectacular to see for them). And I have never seen so many people kite in the LZ as there (maybe 30?).

From Chamonix Sept

To mix things up we ventured on a couple of via ferratas. A via ferrata is a climbing route with cables, metal steps and ladders, making it possible to move through exposed and steep terrain at a fast pace (compared to belayed rock-climbing). Instead of ropes and assorted other climbing gear, only a climbing harness with a short rope and two carabineers (special via-ferrata set-up) is needed. I especially ‘liked’ the Nepalese bridge on La Curella which spans a 30 meter gap with just 3 cables, one to walk on and two higher ones to hold on to. Way more exciting than any paragliding I have done (and ever want to do).

From Chamonix Sept

Chamonix is definitely worth a visit (or several), but better in spring or early summer if one is looking for good flying conditions (and easy Aiguille du Midi access).

(Driving back to Germany on the Autobahn was definitely not a ‘Fahrvergnügen’)