Nepal Khumbu - 3 Passes Trek

In October a friend and I hiked the 3-Passes Trek in the Nepal Everest (Khumbu) region. An amazing trek with stunning views of the world's highest mountains. I'm still procrastinating on the day-by-day trip report about all the impressions and sights, meanwhile some random notes and a table of our itinerary with elevation gains and hiking times.

We hired a porter/guide via an agency in KTM and hiked for 21 days, starting from Phaplu (jeep ride from Kathmandu) and flew back to KTM from Lukla.

Spending a lot of time in Kathmandu may not be for everybody, especially touristy Thamel with a lot of dust, crowds, traffic is rather tiring. Accommodation in the area near Boudhanath Pagoda is much nicer and quieter (and also relatively close to the airport).

Money: extra US cash is useful. ATMs do not always work (power outages, break down). Withdrawal amounts, fees and allowed frequency vary (max 35,000 rp, in Lukla only 15,000 rp, some ATMs only once/day). In Lukla only Visa cards worked. No ATMs past Namche.

Clothing and boots: Down jacket and warm pants were nice to have for evening photo sessions and mornings in the higher elevation tea houses. I was happy with my sleeping bag (rated -7oC, but for me only to good 0 degrees), others may be OK with a thinner bag and extra tea house blankets. I had runners and hiking boots and found the boots quite useful for the first three days from Phaplu to Lukla where the trail was muddy and rocky due to high donkey train traffic and for the passes. On the Annapurna Circuit I found that light runners were prefect for most of the trail as the trek starts much lower and it can be quite warm for the first days (+30oC). Waterproof heavy boots can easily cause blister problems.

Single accommodation can be difficult to find in high-demand places (Lobuche, Gorak Shep, Gokyo) and it may be best to pair up with another solo-trekker.

The early bird gets the worm: starting and arriving early (breakfast at 6:30, start hiking 7 or 7:30 AM) helps to get better views and better choice of accommodation. Clouds/fog often formed in the afternoon when we were there in October. Below Lukla it rained every day around 2 or 3 PM, it was nice to be already in the tea house when it starts pouring.

Additional 2000 rupee ‘community development’ fee was charged just before entering Namche.

Kala Patthar: lots of people go at sunrise but I think afternoon and sunset is better for photos. The sun rises behind Everest/Nuptse, so the walls are in the shade in the morning.

The Everest base camp trail was the most crowded section of the 3 passes trek, Gokyo was a little less crowded and equally scenic. Least crowded were the Chukung and Thame/Lungden valleys.

Flying vs Jeep. The good: longer acclimatization (3 or 7 days, Phaplu or Jiri), avoid problems with cancelled flights to Lukla. The bad: jeep ride as sketchy as the flight into Lukla, the trail is in marginal shape due to more rain and lots of donkey trains (comparable to a rough hiking trail on the Vancouver North shore, rocky and muddy) and takes more time.

Booking flights to/from Lukla: best to book early in the day (weather can get worse during the day, later flights are more likely to be cancelled).

Drinking water treatment (pump, uv, pristine etc) is preferable to buying bottled water as there is no recycling and plastic bottles are often either discarded or burned in open fires.

With increasing elevation prices for accommodation, food, showers, charging of electronics, bottled water increase. Solar charger and/or battery packs and means of treating water treatment are useful. There is no free Wifi after Namche but Everest Link service is available 200 Mb for 600 rp.

Spelling of place names varies widely.

Day 

0 - Kathmandu sightseeing

1 - Jeep to Phaplu/Salleri - 2300m, 11h driving, bad road
2 - Nunthala (2200m, 7h) via Traksindo La (approx. 3050m), trail muddy with loose rocks, lots of donkey trains,

3 - Bubsa (2050m, 6h) via Dud Koshi (1500m), same trail conditions,

4 - Surkhe (2300m, 6h), same trail conditions,

5 - Monjo (2850, 6h) trail in much better shape but many trekkers from Lukla

6 - Namche (3360m, 3h)
7 - Namche (3360m), rest day, hike to Kumjung (Monastery with Yeti scalp) and Everest View Hotel (3800m)
8 – Tengboche (3800m, 5h), Monastery, monks prayer in the morning and evening
9 – Dingboche (4300m, 4h)

10 – Chukkung (4730m, 2.5h)
11 - Chukkung (4730m), rest day, Chukkung Ri (5300m, 3.5h)
12 – Lobuche (4930m, 6.5h) via Kongma La (5535m)

13 – Gorak Shep (5020m, 2h) and Kala Patthar (5544m, 3h round trip)
14 – Dzongla (4800m, 5h)

15 – Dragnag (=Tagnag) (4700m, 6h) via Cho La (5400m)
16 – Gokyo (4900m, 1.5h), fourth lake (2h)
17 – Gokyo rest day, hike Gokyo Ri (5400m, 3.5h)
18 – Lumbden (4500, 6h) via Renjo La (5480m)

19 – Namche (3360, 6h)

20 – Phakding (2785m, 4h)

21 – Lukla (2850m, 2.5h)

Looking down valley from Kala Patthar, the glacier is Khumbu, pointy peak on the left Ama Dablam

Gokyo Lake from Gokyo Ri

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