Chamonix, Sept 4-16

What amazing awe-inspiring scenery!

Like an all-imposing giant of rock and ice Mont Blanc dominates the views from almost everywhere. Although I have seen (and climbed) higher peaks, I have never been anywhere near such a massive mountain.

We lucked out with the weather, flew many different sites, tried new wings, did some short hikes and got even some via-ferrata climbing in. Didn't remember how much fun this was... have to do more of it next time we come to Europe – lots of exposure for excellent adrenalin jolts in a relatively save environment.

From Chamonix Sept

Since it’s posted already on our local flying forum, I will just recycle what I wrote there:

Fall flying in Chamonix is just like fall flying here. Mostly stable conditions make for scratch sessions and more or less extended sled rides. Valley winds can get strong in the afternoon. We even got a display of a solid Föhn-gust. Fortunately only a traction kite was up in the LZ and the kite-flyer got dragged all across it without damage.

But sled rides in Chamonix are of a different dimension. The views are gorgeous. Massive Mt Blanc and the needles of the many aiguilles dominate the scenery. Launching on a glacier, floating over crevasses seconds after getting airborne, searching rock cliffs for thermals, floating over the town with its many tourists and flower-decorated houses. Access to launches is fast and easy with gondolas and lifts (but some close in fall). Multi-day passes are well worth the money, especially in stable conditions. Pete did 6 flights in one day, probably half the costs of our 8-day pass. During our first week we stayed at the Flyers Lodge (http://www.flyers-lodge.com) in Domancy just outside the Chamonix valley, with Dennis and Gillian, who gave us lots of great tips on flying in the area.

We flew Planpraz (2000 m) across the valley from Mt Blanc on several days. On the final day Pete managed to climb to 2800 m and fly over the Brevent to Plaine Joux. From Plan de l'Aiguille (2200 m, mid station of the Aiguille du Midi gondola) we cruised over Bosson Glacier. To fly the Aiguille du Midi (3800m) you must cross an ice arête. It had a distinct knife-edge appearance and was topped by a stream of short-roped scramblers, posed perfectly to take everybody else out and down a 1000 meter slope should one slip. We gave it a pass. We flew from Les Grands Montets (3200 m) instead, where the launch is on a flat glacier a pleasant stroll from the gondola station (but watch for the crevasses), and where we got surprised by a massive rockfall from the Dru just around the corner (according to the news the mountain shed 12000 m3 of rock). Outside the Chamonix Valley we flew from Plaine Joux and Annecy (gorgeous limestone ridges and cliffs). Annecy Montmin launch is the most deluxe one I have ever set foot on with artificial lawn and terraced area for spectators (fortunately nothing too spectacular to see for them). And I have never seen so many people kite in the LZ as there (maybe 30?).

From Chamonix Sept

To mix things up we ventured on a couple of via ferratas. A via ferrata is a climbing route with cables, metal steps and ladders, making it possible to move through exposed and steep terrain at a fast pace (compared to belayed rock-climbing). Instead of ropes and assorted other climbing gear, only a climbing harness with a short rope and two carabineers (special via-ferrata set-up) is needed. I especially ‘liked’ the Nepalese bridge on La Curella which spans a 30 meter gap with just 3 cables, one to walk on and two higher ones to hold on to. Way more exciting than any paragliding I have done (and ever want to do).

From Chamonix Sept

Chamonix is definitely worth a visit (or several), but better in spring or early summer if one is looking for good flying conditions (and easy Aiguille du Midi access).

(Driving back to Germany on the Autobahn was definitely not a ‘Fahrvergnügen’)

Coquihalla - Guanaco Hike, Aug 13

Time to go for a hike and do some more exploring in the Coquihalla ... On our scramble up Lama/Alpaca last year two granite spires just around the corner caught our interest: Vicuna and Guanaco. Especially since we watched three paragliders take off from the shoulder of Guanaco. Although we were not keen to carry our wings up for a short sled ride (in uncertain valley winds) it seemed like a neat place to check out.


Thar, Nak, Yak, Zopkios and Jim Kelly and Coquihalla in the back row


The trail was better then the one to Lama/Alpaca and the views did not disappoint. I'm always amazed about these spectacular places just a little off the beaten track. And always thinking: if this would be in Europe, it would be a major tourist attraction. Maybe better the way it is. Great destination for a medium length day trip from Vancouver. Due to the late start we only bagged Guanaco. Have to come back for Vicuna another time (with some climbing gear?).


Indian Paintbrush and Bog Orchids

Lots of snow still lingering in the niches and crannies for this time of year. Nice wildflowers and a black bear on the drive back to the highway. Exploring some more we drove up one of the logging roads close to Hope and ended up camping on a ridge way above the highway.

Pemberton XC, Aug 6/7

Pemby flying was so good last weekend that we had to come back! I managed to do the run to Copper Mound for a second time, for another 40 km out and return XC flight.

This time I spent quite some time low at the end of Owl ridge to gain enough height for the hop over to the next ridge. While I was groveling around Pete joined me after an aborted attempt to get over the flat section. As we searched patiently for lift, another pilot arrived above us and soon hooked into a thermal. I noticed that his harness looked rather weird and on closer inspection realized that he was in a wheelchair! Whoever it was, thanks for showing us the thermal to get out of there!

As usually Pete moved on at a faster pace and carried on across Hurley Pass Road, while I turned around at Copper Mound. Guess I need to do this a few more times to figure out the next step (crossing the Hurley).



In the picture above, Pemberton Valley is on the right. Mackenzie launch is on the backside of the ridge in the middle (above the small lake in the centre), Owl Peak is just right of centre. The flat section (a bit more challenging to cross this time) is between Owl Peak and the foreground ridge (just below centre of picture). I'm on the return leg of my flight and Copper Mound behind me. Pemberton, hidden by Owl ridge, is about 20 km away and past the green meadows on the very right.

August Long Weekend

It seems as if summer has finally arrived! What a sweet long weekend!

With the late snow melt and high water levels this year, the Clearwater trip was a last minute decision. Finally the river came down to manageable 450 cms (= 3.5). Plan B was the Wenatchee, still above 5000 cfs (the average for this time of the year is well below 2000 cfs). But in the end we decided to avoid possible border line-ups and the usual Hwy 2 traffic jams and headed north.

We haven’t paddled the Clearwater at this level for quite a while. Huge fun wave trains on the run above the Kettle, but most of the play spots on the lower run were washed out. Lots of VKC paddlers showed up despite the late call, and everybody had a good time (except those suffering from the mosquito attacks).

A nice addition to this year's Clearwater trip was meeting former neighbors from Germany. They moved to Canada several years ago and are now owners of a bakery/cafe (Flour Meadows Bakery). Back in Germany they lived one road over from my parents place and went to the same school as I. We even have common friends. A small world!





Sunday night we headed back towards Lillooett and camped in Edge Hills Provincial Park. It’s a recently established park off the map and undeveloped except for the rustic campsite which we had all to ourselves. The park is perched on the east rim of the Fraser Canyon. Looking down in the canyon revived fond memories of our explorations around Big Bar, Watson Bar, Jesmond and of the Chilko-Fraser river trip 4 years ago – hard to believe so few people visit this stunning area.

Our plan worked out with excellent flying weather in Pemberton on Monday. I flew twice as far as I had here before (+40km), made the crossing from Owl Peak to the next ridge and on to Copper Mound - almost to Hurley Pass Road! Pretty cool to thermal up next to the snowy slopes of the ridge, peek over to Tenquille Lake, and look down onto the top of Copper Mound where we stood a year ago after hiking up from the lake.